
Horses can see in the dark, so moonlight rides in the mountains are a possible adventure
We were recently asked to provide a horseback ride into the pre-cordillera of the Andes,close to Santiago, at night. It turned out to be full moon, although that was coincidental as it was a birthday party of a special kind. As it happened, it was a cloudy night and pretty dark. We had lights at the barbecue site but the guests had to ride up, and later down, in the dark.

The arrieros made a good fire and cooked the barbecue for the riders

The birthday girl with the arrieros after the feast in the mountains
Luckily horses can see at night, so there was no problem apart from a little nervous anxiety. Our head guide told me that horses can not only see, they have a powerful sense of smell and can follow another horse this way, ‘olfateando’. Once on a 12 day ride where I was a client, not provider, the main ride got separated from the mule train which had all our warm clothes, food and camping equipment. We waited by a lake at about 3000 metres for the mules to arrive. Darkness fell and we began to despair. The journey that day had been steep and difficult even for our comparatively lightly- laden horses, but the mules were slowed down by their immense burdens.
Finally, in darkness, the arrieros with the mules came to a boggy area and it was now pitch dark. My arriero friend told me that the head guide that day made a potentially fatal error. He got off his horse. I asked why this was so terrible. My friend answered that once you get off you confuse the horse who expects you to lead him; therefore he doesn’t use his own instincts properly. I asked, ‘So what happened?’ He replied, ” I kicked my horse forward and he took the lead”; smelling where our horses had trodden in daylight, and took the correct path through the bog. They arrived, so all was well, at about 11 pm having climbed, laden, right up a mountain and then down, down through bog and darkness to the lake where we were waiting in the cold for them.

Arriero checks that all is well for his client before she sets off into the night
The cordillera around Santiago is in many ways more beautiful in winter than even in summer. Instead of flowers we have snow on the surrounding heights, sometimes coming as low as were we ride, although it is more often in the distance. The sun usually shines and the middle of the day is almost hot,…
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A rare opportunity taken as Lauren snaps this beautiful Chilean Condor (Andean Condor, Vultur gryphus) from her horse, who stand quiet for her moment of photography on a ride in the Cajon del Maipo, towards the Embalse de Yeso near Santiago
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In Chile the occupation of arriero, or huaso, is disappearing, especially from the central zone, and the Cajon del Maipo in particular. The arrival of refrigerated lorries makes it unnecessary to drive cattle over the mountains from Argentina and the shrivelling of agriculture and the replacement of horses with agricultural machinery for the little that…
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Rodeos in Chile are even more popular as a sport than football. It is a sport that has its origins in more than 400 years of working cattle in a manner that is unique to Chile. Everyone in the crowd has an opinion on how to win and much advice is offered to the competitors from the stands,…
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The story goes that the Incas came as far south as Santiago and had a holy place high up on the mountain El Plomo. One day an arriero working on the mountain had a dream about a boy who was buried on the mountain. The dream told him the eact location and so he went…
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A LAN Chile flight crashed in the Cajon Lo Valdes, otherwise known locally as ‘El Avion’ in 1965. In the air disaster database it is recorded as ‘The aircraft crashed into terrain after the crew failed to follow the prescribed departure route after takeoff’. The story locally goes that the normal routine was three circles of flight…
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In the Andes in late spring and early summer the rivers are full of snow melt and running high. The riverbed is full of stones and boulders smoothed by glaciers melting through the ages and the horses have to tread with great care. The arrieros select the crossing places carefully, with the inherited wisdom and…
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Our parcela, or parcel of land, small holding, is part of the enormous El Toyo estate, which comprises 20,000 hectareas of mainly mountain land, stretching from just east of San Jose de Maipo to the outskirts of Santiago. It is easy to ride out for day rides into this beautiful estate, where the native trees…
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El Clarillo is a valley which takes its name from the clear spring river which runs through it and joins the red Morado river in a spectacular clash of water colours and rocky waterfalls at the edge of the valley. It is a heavenly spot, ideal for the picnic lunch which goes with the ride,…
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